Navarino Circuit in 5 days, the expedition guide

Welcome to the Dientes de Navarino expedition, the southernmost trekking circuit in the world along the Dientes de Navarino Heritage Route. This circuit (which, as of now, has not yet been discovered by many) is often compared to the "W" of Torres del Paine for its beauty and to the "O" for its difficulty, but we believe it is much more than that, and for this reason it deserves a place on our blog.

Why is it called DIENTES DE NAVARINO trail? A bit of trekking history

The trail owes its name to the island of Navarino, where it is situated, and to the sharp, tooth-like peaks of the mountain range that it traverses.

The circuit was first mentioned by the Australian explorer Clem Lyndenmayer in his Lonely Planet guidebook "Trekking in the Patagonian Andes", published in 1992. Therefore, some of the peaks and passes are named after him, such as the Lyndenmayer mountains, the Australia pass and Cerro Clem.

Several years later and recognizing the increasing popularity of this trail in Patagonia, in 2001 the Ministry of National Assets named the Dientes del Navarino the first of many heritage routes in Chile.

LOCATION How to get to Dientes Circuit?

There are three ways to reach Navarino Island: by plane from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams, by ferry from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams, and by boat and bus from Ushuaia to Puerto Williams. Updated and detailed information about the entry routes, fares, schedules and links where to book can be found in this blog post..

Once in Puerto Williams, you can either walk to the starting point of the circuit along a gravel road from town or contact the official transportation service to drop you off there. The distance from town to the trailhead is 3.5 kilometers.

Distance and difficulty of the circuit

The circuit covers a distance of approximately 40 kilometers (50 kilometers if starting and ending in the center of Puerto Williams). It takes you through peat bogs, native forests, and high rocky summits. Typically, the expedition is planned for 5 days and 4 nights. It is important not to underestimate the distance as the weather in the mountains will likely be extreme, even during summer months. The difficulty lies in following the "trail" - if we can call it that, as in some sections it is practically non-existent. Steep cliffs may require cautious and slow progress, and there may be occasions when it is necessary to camp and wait for better weather conditions.

Trail signage

The infrastructure on the Dientes Circuit is minimal. Only the first 3.5 km of the trail, up until the summit of Cerro Bandera, have boardwalks, steps, and basic trail markers.Along the rest of the circuit, you will come across markers every now and then (standing at one of them does not guarantee seeing the next; in fact, in some cases more than 500 meters can pass without spotting a marker). , You will also find cairns of stones (note that they do not always indicate the correct path), markings on trees and rocks (two horizontal red lines and, in some cases, arrows indicating the direction), and pink ribbons tied to branches and shrubs (these are found in the final section of the circuit). Our first recommendation regarding this difficulty is to hire the services of an experienced guide or, if that is not an option for you, at least carry a map of the Dientes de Navarino, a GPS route, extra batteries, and/or smartphone applications like MapsMe with the trail downloaded(you can download the .kmz file from this wikiexplora link).)

Campsites along the Dientes de Navarino circuit

You have probably read and seen some maps indicating symbols for campsites. We will also provide you with this information, but it is important to note that these are not actual campsites as such, as they do not have any kind of infrastructure. Rather, these are places where you are more likely to find flat and dry areas to set up your tents..

The Dientes de Navarino circuit and its climate

We find ourselves in an extreme place where the weather conditions are highly unpredictable. In a single day, you may experience a sudden downpouror even heavy snowfall in the middle of summer, and minutes later you may enjoy blue skies and sunshine. Please look at the sky and appreciate each of these weather episodes at the end of the world!

Satellite connectivity

You will not have phone signal while on the trail (unless you bring a satellite phone). However, a VHF radio could be useful for communication with Puerto Williams during the first and last kilometers of the circuit, and we highly recommend its use between trekking partners.

Registration at the police station

For safety reasons it is highly recommended to register at the local police station (Comisaría Carabineros , located in Piloto Pardo street), providing your trekking plans and itinerary before starting your expedition. Additionally, it is important to visit the same police station upon your return to report your successful completion of the hike. This, in addition to keeping an accurate record of the number of people hiking the circuit, allows for necessary actions to be taken in case of any unforeseen incidents and enabling timely assistance if needed.

Let’s start the adventure of hiking the Dientes de Navarino!

Experience untamed nature on the southernmost trekking circuit in Chile and the world, traversing native forests, walking along old guanaco trails, crossing beaver dams, and navigating steep and challenging mountain passes in the most extreme weather conditions of Tierra del Fuego.

Day 1. “THE FIRST TRIAL”. Highlight: Cerro Bandera

(Distance: 11 km – Elevation gain: 600 m – Time: 6-7 hours)

The distance from the center of Puerto Williams to the starting point of the Dientes de Navarino circuit is 3.5 kilometers. You can either walk this distance from the city center to the trailhead along a gravel road or contact the official transportation service to pick you up from your accommodation and take you there (Transfer Puerto Williams / Mr. Eduardo Cid / +56 9 4267 5015). This way, you will start your expedition with full energy.

At the beginning of the trail there is a tourist information office, which is also used by the National Forest Corporation, where you will find public restrooms. It is the last glimpse of civilization you will find over the next few days.

The first challenge: Loaded up with all your gear, you will tackle a 550-meter ascent over a distance of 3.4 kilometers.Don't worry, this is the steepest ascent you will experience during the circuit, and it is the day when you will be carrying the heaviest load (make sure to pack food for 6 days - yes, an extra portion just in case). The path in this first section is well-marked and offers shelter from the wind. You will venture into the subantarctic native forests for the first time and along the way you will find look-out platforms and benches to take breaks and rest. With a steady pace, you will emerge from the forest and arrive at the national flag that marks the top of Cerro Bandera. The views of the Beagle Channel from the top never fail to impress.

The second challenge: From now on, you will hike the rest of the day in high Andean terrain along the eastern slope of the Róbalo valley, which will put those who experience vertigo to the test.You might also feel the wind approaching. It is important to be cautious and stay firm to the ground as strong gusts may catch you off guard. Once you have a bird's-eye view of the Laguna del Salto, you will encounter the first challenging descent of the circuit: downhill through rocky terrain and unstable graveluntil you reach the shores of the Laguna del Salto.

Overnight stay: This place would be a good one to spend your first night as you will find running and clean water nearby, along with a few flat and dry areas (these may not be abundant, but with a little exploration you will find a suitable spot to put up your tent).

Day 2. “THE PASSES”. Highlight: Picacho de los Dientes

(Distance: 9 km – Elevation gain: 500 m – Time: 5-6 hours)

Skirting the Laguna del Salto, keeping it on your right, you will cross the first creek. The second one, flowing through a steep ravine, will be the "trail" to follow. It is a continuous ascent that will wet your hiking boots from the beginning of the daybut will bring you closer to the peaks of the Dientes de Navarino. The first passis extraordinarily beautiful: at this altitude, it is not uncommon to find snow even in summer, and you will only come across a few resilient cushion plants, offering a glimpse of life in this harsh environment.

You will continue ascending until reaching the mountain pass that marks the end of the Róbalo valley, known as Paso Australia,from where you will see the Laguna del Paso on the other side. The lagoon needs to be crossed along the steep slope to the right, which constitutes one of the most challenging sections of the circuit.It is important to mention that outside the summer season this area is covered with a layer of ice that makes it impossible to pass without special equipment such as ice axes, crampons, and other gear. If, during the summer, you come across rocks with water, snow, or ice as a result from recent rain or a cold night, our advice is to wait and cross this area in the afternoon when the daytime temperatures have improved the conditions.

Crossing this pass, known as the Paso de Los Dientes,means entering the southern parts of Navarino Island. From there, if the weather permits, you will be able to enjoy scenic views of Lake Windhond and Windhond Bay and possibly see as far south as Nassau Bay and the Cape Horn archipelago.

The rest of the journey is a breeze on this flat terrain with a gentle descent. You will pass by the Laguna del Picacho on your right, and on your left you will have the towering peak of Picacho de los Dientes, with a height of over a thousand meters (1118 meters above sea level). From the southern edge of the third lagoon, you will have a view of the valley that constitutes the Lake Windhond Heritage Route.At this point, you will need to turn right (heading east) and continue towards Laguna de los Dientes,where we recommend you set up your second camp.

Overnight stay: The area around Laguna de los Dientes and Cerro Gabriel offers both exposed sites near the lagoon (if the weather is good, waking up by the lagoon is a real treat) and in forested areas, which provide more protection in case of adverse weather conditions.

Day 3. “THE WINDS”. Highlight: Laguna Martillo

(Distance: 7 km – Elevation gain: 300 m – Time: 5-6 hours)

The trail continues along the Laguna de los Dientes, which will always be on your left, until you leave Cerro Gabriel on the other side. From there, you will continue through the valley that appears on the right, full of stunted forests and peat bogs. The lagoon Laguna Escondida is another iconic postcard scene of the Dientes de Navarino circuit. You will need to hike along it, keeping it to your right, and then follow a small stream until crossing it over a beaver dam. Following the valley to its end and having passed patches of thicket, you will find yourself at an enclosed lagoon. The steep ascent over rocks leading to Paso Ventarrón offers a contrasting view: to the south, a green valley dotted with lagoons and beaver dams, and, to the north (where you just came from), the rugged peaks of the Dientes de Navarino mountain range.

Up on the pass you will need to change direction to the west (turning right), following a gentle slope for a few minutes before taking on a gentle and extended descent. The mountainside with its rocky terrain is highly exposed and susceptible to strong wind gust,so you should exercise caution to avoid any scares until you reach the valley, which will provide more protection among bushes and trees.

Having passed the last lagoon, which is also a beaver habitat, you will reach the foot of the Guerrico pass, a sheltered area from where you will begin to ascend: first through a forest of gnarled trees and then over large areas of bedrock covered in cushion plants. From the Guerrico pass,you will be treated to stunning views over the valley and the Laguna Hermosa, which you will keep to your right as you find your way and continue the descent for another few hours.

Overnight stay: In the southern part of Laguna Martillo, which is the section of the lagoon you will reach first, there are some flat areas where you can pitch your tent (it will be challenging but not impossible to find dry areas.)

Day 4. “THE PRECIPICE”. Highlight: Virginia Pass

(Distance: 10 km – Elevation gain: 600 m – Time: 6-7 hours)

Before starting your hike on this day, take a minute while standing in front of Laguna Martillo to admire the mountains that surround it. The imposing Cero Clem along with the Lindenmayer Mountains form the most beautiful tribute to the explorer who opened the trail.

The trail continues along the shores of Laguna Martillo, which will always be on your left side, until you come across a 90-degree turn to the right that leads away from it. Continue the path that will take you to the other side of the same Laguna Martillo.

From this point on you must exercise extreme caution as you follow a basically non-existent trail, crossing though peat bogs,some beaver dams,and the Rocallosa lagoon (which you should always keep to your left),then some more peat bogs, and finally a forest that marks the beginning of the ascent to the Virginia pass.

It is important to keep a sharp eye out for the trail markers, particularly when entering the forested area. Once you pass the first thicket of trees and start going uphill, the trail is much easier to find due to the erosion caused by water and the already marked footsteps of previous explorers. But a clearly visible trail does not guarantee an effortless hike: at certain times of the year, it can turn into a muddy mire, where you may need to rely on tree branches and shrubs to make your way up.

The next part of the ascent is easier but no less challenging. Pay close attention once again to locate the cairns of stones and to follow the trail,particularly in the final stretch, which is exposed high Andean terrain.

The plateau you reach, near the source of a creek,is truly remarkable: take a sip of the purest water while enjoying a spectacular panoramic view. From this spot, highly exposed and slightly ascending, we have a remaining distance of 500 meters to reach the highest point of the circuit (848 meters above sea level).This section should be traversed when there is good visibility to avoid getting off track, as there are snow and rock ledges on both sides (the use of a compass is highly recommended at this point - bearing 30 degrees).

To the north, the Virginia Pass offers breathtaking views of the valley of the same name, the Beagle Channel, and Tierra del Fuego. On top of the pass, strong gusts of wind are common, so exercise utmost caution, especially in the first stretch when walking along the ledge towards the right. Once past this section, you will need to continue descending the steep slope, sliding down this jumble of scree with sand, gravel, and rocks,before hiking along the Laguna los Guanacos, keeping it to your right.

The viewpoint situated on the other side of Laguna los Guanacos is not part of the trail. We must not cross the river that originates from the lagoon; instead, continue along the slope on the left, keeping the river on your right side, and then enter a lovely native forest.

Overnight stay: The forest provides various options for setting up your tent. If the weather is good and there has not been any rain in the previous days, you can also find good spots to spend the night in front of what remains of the Laguna las Guanacas (don't be alarmed if you hear a "splash" in the middle of the night, it is just the beavers letting you know you are in their territory).

Day 5. “WILD TRAILS”. Highlight: Los Bronces Waterfall

(Distance: 3 km – Elevation gain: 300 meters – Time: 3 hours)

The lagoon Las Guanacas has to be skirted on the right side. You will pass through areas of marshland and forest. Inside the latter, it will become challenging to follow the trail due to the large number of fallen trees,so you must pay close attention to the trail markers, looking out for two red lines marked on trees or pink ribbons hanging from their branches. As you emerge from the dense forest and the landscape opens up, Puerto Williams becomes visible in the distance.

From this point you continue along the slope of the mountain to your right, passing through thicket and bushes of calafate, until you reach a large dead tree trunk standing upright that marks the end of the trail..

Do you think you are done? The Dientes de Navarino trail ends in the middle of nowhere from where it is still an almost two-kilometer-long hike through the numerous paths left by cattle and wild horses.We recommend that, instead of heading straight down to the abandoned Mc Lean fishery, you follow the slope, slowly descending, for another 400 meters towards the east to reach the Bronces bridge. You will pass through meadows and thicket until you reach the Bronces waterfall, from where it is just another 15 minutes to the main road.

From that road you still have 6 kilometers to walk until you reach the city, where you will have completed the entire 48 kilometer circuit starting and ending in the southernmost city in the world!

NOTE: This is by no means an easy circuit and requires prior experience in multi-day hikes carrying all necessary gear. More people than you would think become aware of the challenges after the first day and decide to turn around, making the Dientes de Navarino into a one or two-day expedition. If this happens to you, we have a plan B to offer: you can finish with a shorter circuit by returning on the trail that is part of the Lake Windhond Heritage Route. This trail follows the river and lagoons down through the same valley that you admired the day before from high Andean terrain above. It is easy to veer off the trail, but it is also easy to find it again. As you descend, remember to keep both Laguna Tortuga and Laguna Róbalo on your left side.

ANOTHER NOTEIf you are interested in joining our Dientes de Navarino expeditions, you can visit this link to see the dates for upcoming tours..

REQUEST: We wrote this post with great care to enhance your experience on the island. If you found it helpful, we would be immensely grateful for any support you can offer in return (subscribe to our newsletter, give it a like, leave a comment, share it, etc.). It does not require much effort and means the world to us.

It does not require much effort and means the world to us.

@exploranavarino Team